Saturday, December 30, 2006

London Day 5: Sun to Rain and a London Walk or Two

Despite the overnight rain, we woke to sunny skies and promptly go out to Portobello Road Market in Notting Hill. It's a good thing we were there first thing in the morning because by 10am, the area was seething. Notting Hill is a an area made famous by the movie but known best as an affluent and older fashionable area with lots of trust fund babies with an equally thriving "alternative" culture (per wikipedia's description) with lots of second hand clothing and antique stores. On Saturdays (like today), vendors set up stalls with fruits and vegetables, meats, clothing (new and used), antiques, silver, art, accessories and more. All sorts of items were here and mostly divided up by category.

I finally found something affordable to buy in London at Portobello Road, a new cute wrap top for only £10 from a new designer called Emily and Fin. And I tried it on in the market behind a little sheet...in 40 degree weather. As the morning went on, the day became more lovely and the streets of Notting Hill more crowded. We wandered some side streets and took pictures of the multi-colored house fronts until stopping at a bagel store. The English may admire a New York bagel but they haven't learned how to imitate it yet.

More later including our adventures with London Walks in the rain...

London Walks is a GREAT company that provides guided walking tours of London, with very professional, knowledgeable and somewhat theatrical guides. We joined up for an afternoon This Is London! tour with Judy. This is the Flash-Bang-Lightning Highlights tour that includes a visit to the biggest sites that London has to offer including a ride along the Thames, Tower Bridge, St. Paul's Cathedral, St. James's Park, Whitehall, Buckingham Palace, the Mall and Trafalgar Square. What London Walks specializes in is giving you the keys to the areas that you would never find on your own and stories that you will never read in a guidebook. Only have one day in London? This tour is a great introduction.
We liked this tour so much that we decided to take another £6 a person London Walk to the Old Hampstead Village Pub Walk with Peter G. This walk covers the high hill above London, looking at areas where history ranges from Keats and DH Lawrence to Elizabeth Taylor and Jamie Oliver. We punctuated our historical (and rainy) adventure through Hampstead and the border of the Heath, with two great pubs - the Holly Bush and Ye Olde White Bear. At the Holly Bush, we played tour guide for a young man whose wife was taking her mother for a two week holiday in the States. He wanted to know where they might travel between Boston and DC. Funny that we would be very familiar with that area! We were led by the Admiral's House, on top of which are 12 cannons which the original owner used to fire to claim victory in naval conflicts, the inspiration for a certain scene in Mary Poppins. Our travels also took us past the oldest known house in Hampstead - the Fenton House, as well as past the home of the late George du Maurier, now owned by Ridley Scott. We ended up meeting a great couple from Amsterdam, Jacob and Femke and stayed on at the restaurant above the Holly Bush for dinner after the pub crawl. W had his first English sausages and mash! Smoked salmon, salad and crusty bread for me. Butter served on the slide in big slabs like cheese. And the oddest small WC (toilet or loo in the UK) that I have ever seen. Four steps inside the front door including one to get to the commode. And the sink in a corner in front so small and close you could wash your hands while sitting down! I guess fire codes are different in the outer reaches of London, the restaurant / pub had candles sitting open on every other stair up to the second floor.
Finally back to the tube, agreeing to a possible meeting for the next evening's New Years' Eve walk with our new friends.

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